Pance: The River Day Trip Every Caleño Knows and Most Tourists Miss

For caleños, the word "Pance" conjures up a very specific feeling: Sunday. The smell of sancocho (chicken soup) hanging in the air. The sound of the river rushing over rocks, punctuated by laughter and salsa music. A borondo (evening cruise) to escape the city heat. Pance isn't just a place; it's a ritual.

Most tourists in Cali stick to the salsa clubs and the attractions worth visiting. But if you want to experience Cali like a local, you need to spend a Sunday in Pance.

Why Caleños drive to Pance on Sundays

Because Cali gets HOT. Like, melt-your-face-off hot. And Pance, with its cool river waters and shady trees, offers a sweet escape. It's where families gather, friends reconnect, and couples find a little romance away from the city's chaos.

For us, it's tradition. My abuelo (grandfather) used to take my mom to Pance when she was a little girl. Now, I go with my primos (cousins) and friends. It's a way to stay connected to our roots, to each other, and to the land.

Plus, let's be honest, the food is incredible. More on that later.

How to get there: MIO, Uber, or the flag-down-a-jeep method

There are three main ways to get to Pance. The cheapest is the MIO bus system. Take the A77 bus from the city center. It'll drop you off on the main road to Pance, and from there, you can hop on a colectivo (shared van) or chiva (open-air bus) for the last leg.

Uber is the most convenient option, especially if you're traveling with a group. Expect to pay around 30,000-40,000 pesos each way. It’s a slightly higher cost, but you get door-to-door service.

The most adventurous (and arguably most Caleño) way is to flag down a jeep. Head to the intersection of Calle 13 and Carrera 100. There, you'll find jeeps waiting to take passengers to Pance. This is the most flexible option, as you can negotiate the price and drop-off location.

The swimming holes (and which ones are actually safe)

The Río Pance offers a variety of swimming holes, from shallow pools perfect for kids to deeper spots for experienced swimmers. But not all spots are created equal. Some are cleaner and safer than others.

La Vorágine: This is the most popular spot, with plenty of restaurants and vendors. The water is generally clean, but it can get crowded on weekends.
El Remolino: A quieter option, El Remolino has a natural rockslide that's fun for all ages. Be careful, though, as the rocks can be slippery.
Puente de Pance: This spot is popular with locals, but it's not as well-maintained as the others. The water can be murky, and there's often trash around. Swim here at your own risk.

Safety Tip: Always check the water quality before swimming. If the water looks cloudy or smells bad, don't go in. And never swim alone.

What to eat riverside: sancocho, sudado, and the charcoal smell

The food in Pance is as much a part of the experience as the river itself. Every restaurant and food stall offers a variation on the same theme: hearty, traditional Colombian cuisine.

Sancocho de gallina (chicken soup) is the undisputed king of Pance. This flavorful soup is made with chicken, potatoes, plantains, and yucca, and it's the perfect way to warm up after a swim. Expect to pay around 15,000-20,000 pesos for a generous bowl.

Sudado de pescado (fish stew) is another popular option, especially on hotter days. This light and refreshing stew is made with fish, tomatoes, onions, and cilantro.

And of course, no trip to Pance is complete without trying chuzos (grilled meat skewers). These are usually made with beef, chicken, or pork, and they're seasoned with a variety of spices. The charcoal smell is half the appeal.

What to bring, what to leave at home, what the signs don't say

Packing for a Pance day trip is all about striking a balance between comfort and practicality.

Bring:

Sunscreen: The sun in Cali is intense, even on cloudy days.
Insect repellent: Mosquitoes and other bugs can be a nuisance, especially in the late afternoon.
Swimsuit and towel: Obvious, but worth mentioning.
Cash: Many vendors don't accept credit cards.
Comfortable shoes: You'll be doing a lot of walking, so leave the heels at home.

Leave at home:

Valuables: Pance is generally safe, but it's always best to leave expensive jewelry and electronics at home.
Glass bottles: These are prohibited in many areas of Pance.
Outside alcohol: Most restaurants and vendors sell beer and other drinks.

What the signs don't say: Keep an eye on your belongings, especially when it gets crowded. And be respectful of the environment. Pack out your trash and avoid disturbing the wildlife.

Staying later than 4pm: should you?

Pance is magical in the late afternoon. As the sun begins to set, the light filters through the trees, creating a golden glow. The air cools down, and the crowds start to thin out.

But staying late also comes with risks. The road back to Cali can get congested, especially on Sundays. And petty crime tends to increase after dark. You should check out safety guides for general advice about Cali.

If you do decide to stay late, be sure to travel with a group and stick to well-lit areas. And consider hiring a taxi or Uber in advance to avoid getting stranded.

Pance is more than just a river; it's a reminder of what makes Cali special. The warmth of the people, the beauty of the landscape, and the simple pleasures of life. It's a place where you can escape the city's chaos and reconnect with nature, with friends, and with yourself. But, like any love affair, it's a complicated one. We embrace it, knowing its beauty and its dangers, because that's what being caleño is all about.